Dominated by dark fruit—plums and blackberries—Fortia's 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve is 85% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre. As one of the rare CdPs that doesn't include any Grenache, it stands out as being different even in a blind tasting, even if I didn't give any thought to which wine it was at the time. Full-bodied, rich and velvety in the mouth, it finishes long and tannic, but ripe. Give it a few years in the cellar before cracking a bottle.

Mainly Syrah, with a bit of Mourvèdre, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve is darker in color than the winery's other cuvées, but not necessarily better. Full-bodied and concentrated, it's earthy and dense, with plummy fruit, hints of cola and clove and a slightly open-knit, coarse structure that's dusty and astringent on the finish. It's not so drying as to be problematic, but it might be better thought of as an expression of Syrah than of what most people think of as Chateauneuf du Pape.

Significantly more complete than this estate's other cuvées, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve is rich, ripe and lusty, with apricot-like ripe stone fruit notes joining the cherry and berry fruit. Hints of blueberry, cracked pepper and dried fennel seed add complexity to this full-bodied beauty, a blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre that's atypical for the region. If finishes long and supple, marked by licorice notes.

Chateau Fortia's 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve is a nontraditional blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache. Plummy and rich, this full-bodied, creamy-textured wine is already delicious, but it should drink well for at least 10 years. Peppery spice and jammy notes glide to a long finish.

Still in barrel, the Syrah dominated 2013 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve, and gives up tons of smoked dark fruits, cured meats, pepper and saddle leather to go with a medium-bodied, mid-weight, charming feel on the palate. It too will drink nicely on release.