The 1997 Cote Rotie Montsalier is a compelling wine. As often as I asked, Barruol would not reveal the source for this extraordinary wine. It emerged from three separate Cote Rotie terroirs and was aged in 100% new casks. Sadly, only 2,400 bottles of this outstanding wine were produced, so the following tasting note is mainly of academic interest. This black-colored wine, a syrup of Syrah, boasts a terrific cassis, bacon fat, and smoky-scented nose with grilled meat notes in the background. Rich and full-bodied, with low acidity, spectacular concentration, and a finish that lasts for nearly a minute, this classic Cote Rotie could compete with some of Marcel Guigal's great single vineyard offerings. It should drink well for 15 or more years. A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers