The 2007 Cotes du Ventoux Domaine de Crillonne is a fruity, bistro-styled red with soft tannin, abundant black cherry fruit, and medium body. It should be drunk over the next 1-2 years. Louis Barruol’s Chateau Saint-Cosme excelled in 2006 with Gigondas, and even eclipsed those efforts with his 2007s. There are four Gigondas selections based on individual terroirs, all of which are brilliant examples of terrific terroirs and impeccable winemaking. Barruol has expanded his business into a negociant line of wines, called Saint-CosmeImporter: Vintage ‘59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218

The 2006 Domaine de le Crillon Cotes du Ventoux is another wine that is 100% Grenache made in a Burgundian style. It is young, elegant, not as weighty and exuberant as his other cuvees from the south, but attractive. Barruol also turns out two cuvees of delicious white Cotes du Rhone. These are all negociant wines from the very talented Gigondas proprietor Louis Barruol. He has a small but flourishing negociant business in addition to his estate wines from Gigondas, and these are his cuvees from Cotes du Rhone.A Patrick Lesec Selection; Agent for the U.S. market: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532

The 2005 Domaine de la Crillonne Cotes du Ventoux is a Grenache-dominated wine that reveals attractive berry fruit intermixed with some flowers, spice, and earth. The wine is medium-bodied, has moderate tannin, and a good finish. Readers should keep in mind that the young, talented proprietor Louis Barruol produces negociant wines under the label Saint-Cosme. and all the estate wines appear under the label Chateau Saint-Cosme. In theory, the only estate wines are the three cuvees of Gigondas.A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; (561) 998-0039; Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048; and Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218

The delicious 2004 Cotes du Ventoux Domaine de la Crillon is a blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre. Crunchy, juicy, and fruit-driven, with medium body, lovely aromatics, and abundant flavor, it should drink well for 3-4 years. Proprietor Louis Barruol is one of the two finest producers of Gigondas (his wines rival those of Yves Gras’ Santa Duc), and also has a burgeoning negociant operation dedicated to making tasty wines. Readers should note that the estate wines are bottled under the Chateau Saint-Cosme label, and the negociant wines, made from purchased wines or grapes, are simply called Saint-Cosme.A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; (561) 998-0039; Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048; and Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218

A new entry in the St.-Cosme lineup is the outstanding 2003 Cote du Ventoux Domaine de la Crillone. Barruol found this 7.5-acre estate, planted on pure fractured limestone soils, and decided he had to have the grapes. Aged in old barrels, the 2003 exhibits a deep ruby/purple color along with a sweet nose of kirsch liqueur, licorice, spice box, and earth. Expansive and savory, its sweet fruit, high glycerin, and low acidity will provide a corpulent mouthful of delectable southern French wine over the next 2-3 years. By the way, 2002 is a horrendous vintage in the southern Rhone. I do not say that lightly, because there are some producers who made very competent wines, but my scores for that vintage tended to plateau at 87-88. However, one of the top 2002s is the Chateau St.-Cosme 2002 Gigondas, a wine that I rated 88. Tasty and sexy with fine ripeness, it reveals no signs of dilution or greenness.The young Barruol is indeed a talented winemaker who exhibits a magical touch that is well beyond his youthful age with so many different types of wine.A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; (561) 998-0039; Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; and Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218