A new entry in the St.-Cosme lineup is the outstanding 2003 Cote du Ventoux Domaine de la Crillone. Barruol found this 7.5-acre estate, planted on pure fractured limestone soils, and decided he had to have the grapes. Aged in old barrels, the 2003 exhibits a deep ruby/purple color along with a sweet nose of kirsch liqueur, licorice, spice box, and earth. Expansive and savory, its sweet fruit, high glycerin, and low acidity will provide a corpulent mouthful of delectable southern French wine over the next 2-3 years. By the way, 2002 is a horrendous vintage in the southern Rhone. I do not say that lightly, because there are some producers who made very competent wines, but my scores for that vintage tended to plateau at 87-88. However, one of the top 2002s is the Chateau St.-Cosme 2002 Gigondas, a wine that I rated 88. Tasty and sexy with fine ripeness, it reveals no signs of dilution or greenness.The young Barruol is indeed a talented winemaker who exhibits a magical touch that is well beyond his youthful age with so many different types of wine.A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; (561) 998-0039; Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; and Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218
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