The 1997 Coteaux du Layon St.-Aubin Les Simonelles SGN offers fresh yet tightly wound aromas. Still unevolved and disjointed, the rich, hugely sweet fruit had yet to integrate with this wine's excellent acidity. Yet it was evident that it is an excellent offering, with bergamot and mineral flavors as well as admirable focus. Given Soulez's immense talents, and the fact that sweet wines can evolve at a snail's pace, it is relatively certain that it will have harmonized by the time it is bottled. This wine should be consumed over the next 12-15 years. Importers: Chicago Wine Merchant / Union Beverage Company, Chicago, IL; tel (800) 685-6868, and World Shippers, Philadelphia, PA; tel (215) 732-2018.