The Pernand-Vergelesses possesses a metallic and mineral nose as well as a delightfully deep, ripe and silky medium body filled with steel, chalk, and stones. Well-balanced and crafted, it will provide refreshing drinking until 2001. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

The Pernand-Vergelesses is reminiscent of the Mercurey, but with a touch more austerity, flintiness and focus. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. Trebuchet believes young white wines, especially his, deserve to be afforded the same right to breathe as red wines before being consumed. He recommends decanting them a half hour or more before they are served. Olivier Humbrecht of the Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace shares a similar belief, convincing me a number of years ago of the beneficial characteristics breathing can add to his wines. The goal of this firm is to produce firm, elegant wines that are made for the long haul. These are not big leesy, flamboyant wines because Jean Chartron and Louis Trebuchet do not believe that style of white will age well. Trebuchet stated that "overly stirring the lees covers a wine's finesse and typicity more than oak ever could." Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

In nearly every vintage, Chartron et Trebuchet's Saint-Aubin-La Chateniere is better than most of the other wines. The 1992 is the pick of this generally uninspiring line-up of negociant wines. The 1992 Pernand-Vergelesses is chunky and straightforward. On a positive note, prices are as low as I have seen them from this firm. A Becky Wasserman Selection, various importers.