Citrus fruits and minerals can be detected in the aromas and flavors of the 2001 Puligny-Montrachet. Light-bodied, pure, and refined, it displays appealing depth to its lemony personality. Drink it over the next 2 years. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949; and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699

This negociant firm produced 2,500 cases of its delicious 1998 Puligny-Montrachet. Aromas of white flowers and cookie dough are followed by a plump, medium to full-bodied, and highly expressive wine. Crammed with toasty, buttery, white fruits and minerals, this concentrated effort should be drunk earlier rather than later. Anticipated maturity: now-2003. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

The Puligny-Montrachet was aromatically muted the day of my tasting. However, on the palate, this fat, opulent, and medium-bodied offering was extremely expressive. It displays intense flavors of pear and anise in its oily-textured and well-crafted character. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

The Puligny-Montrachet displays floral, perfumed, and almond aromas followed by a medium-bodied, velvety, well-crafted, butter cookie-flavored, and rich personality. Well-balanced and delineated, it should be at its best between 1999 and 2003. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

From Chartron et Trebuchet's home turf, the Puligny Montrachet is an excellent example of what a village wine should be. It reveals a floral nose with flavors of sweet, deeply roasted fruits. This wine has good length and will hold well for the next 5+ years. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. Trebuchet believes young white wines, especially his, deserve to be afforded the same right to breathe as red wines before being consumed. He recommends decanting them a half hour or more before they are served. Olivier Humbrecht of the Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace shares a similar belief, convincing me a number of years ago of the beneficial characteristics breathing can add to his wines. The goal of this firm is to produce firm, elegant wines that are made for the long haul. These are not big leesy, flamboyant wines because Jean Chartron and Louis Trebuchet do not believe that style of white will age well. Trebuchet stated that "overly stirring the lees covers a wine's finesse and typicity more than oak ever could." Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.