Charles Schleret Pinot Gris Herrenweg, Alsace, France

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The deep golden color of Schleret’s 2005 Pinot Gris Herrenweg hints at its honeyed, peachy, botrytis spice-inflected aromas and flavors. A carnal streak runs through this wine from beginning to end – almost as if the foie gras were included in the price of the bottle – and its creamy texture, botrytis, and sheer ripeness do not preclude juiciness and refreshment. Subtle smokiness, a slight hint of sweetness and heat, and yet also lip smacking fruit mark the finish. Charles Schleret (who founded his small, eponymous domaine in the 1950s) may be signaling that he is near retirement, but little had changed since I last visited him nearly fifteen years ago including his enthusiasm, the generally high quality, the style (save for a tad more residual sugar) and simple hierarchy of his wines, their leisurely pace of release, or the large apron he wears over top of a jacket and tie. It is hard here not to succumb to nostalgia, and to become more than a little peeved in recognition of how rare Alsace wine with such versatility, modesty, simple labeling (!) and effortless grace has nowadays become. All this praise aside (and I tasted a range of older wines as well on this occasion) numerous Schleret 2004s (which are currently on the market) were obscured by an overtly milky cast as a byproduct of their malo-lactic fermentations.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910 1990

The lush, medium-bodied 1997 Tokay-Pinot Gris Herrenweg displays smoky yellow fruit aromas and an opulent, expressive personality. This satin-textured wine boasts hickory smoke-imbued apricots and peaches in its flavor profile. It is thick, powerful, and luxurious, yet gorgeously detailed. Projected maturity: now-2007. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990.

Schleret's 1994 Tokay-Pinot Gris Herrenweg is an outstanding wine, made in a more elegant style without the heaviness of the bigger Pinot Gris made by Alsace's top producers. The wine exhibits an attractive, curranty, honeyed cherriness, juicy, rich flavors, pinpoint precision, and a dry, crisp, pure finish. It should drink well for 5-7 years.Except among knowledgeable insiders, readers are not likely to hear the name Charles Schleret compared to the likes of Colette Faller's Domaine Weinbach or Domaine Zind-Humbrecht. Although Schleret is a low profile producer, his wines are unquestionably exquisite, as evidenced by the 1994s reviewed in this segment.Importer: Neal Rosenthal. His selections can be purchased at his retail shop in Manhattan (tel. 212-249-6650 and fax 212-744-3354). His address is P.O. Box 658, Route 83, Shekomeko, NY 12567; telephone 800-910-1990.

The 1992 Tokay-Pinot Gris Herrenweg is not made in the typical blockbuster, unctuously-textured, chewy, thick style so common among top producers of Alsatian Tokay. It reveals a roasted nut-scented, buttery, rich, fragrant bouquet, and crisp, medium-bodied, concentrated, stylish flavors. Long in the mouth, with wonderful vibrancy and uplift, as well as noteworthy delineation, this dry, medium-bodied wine should drink well for a decade. Because of Charles Schleret's low profile, he is not nearly as well-known as Madame Faller of Domaine Weinbach or the Humbrecht family of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht. However, Schleret's wines can be superb. One would not expect such richness and intensity from the 1992 vintage, but Schleret has performed admirably. Importer: Select Vineyards, Neal Rosenthal, New York, NY.