Charles Schleret Pinot Gris Herrenweg, Alsace, France

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The deep golden color of Schleret’s 2005 Pinot Gris Herrenweg hints at its honeyed, peachy, botrytis spice-inflected aromas and flavors. A carnal streak runs through this wine from beginning to end – almost as if the foie gras were included in the price of the bottle – and its creamy texture, botrytis, and sheer ripeness do not preclude juiciness and refreshment. Subtle smokiness, a slight hint of sweetness and heat, and yet also lip smacking fruit mark the finish. Charles Schleret (who founded his small, eponymous domaine in the 1950s) may be signaling that he is near retirement, but little had changed since I last visited him nearly fifteen years ago including his enthusiasm, the generally high quality, the style (save for a tad more residual sugar) and simple hierarchy of his wines, their leisurely pace of release, or the large apron he wears over top of a jacket and tie. It is hard here not to succumb to nostalgia, and to become more than a little peeved in recognition of how rare Alsace wine with such versatility, modesty, simple labeling (!) and effortless grace has nowadays become. All this praise aside (and I tasted a range of older wines as well on this occasion) numerous Schleret 2004s (which are currently on the market) were obscured by an overtly milky cast as a byproduct of their malo-lactic fermentations.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910 1990