With its shifting array of fruit notes, ranging from plum to cassis and red berries and its subtle hints of vanilla, chocolate and cedar, this is a wonderfully complex expression of modern-styled Cabernet. The tannins are soft, imparting a creamy, supple texture, while the fruit easily conceals the wine’s 14.9% alcohol. Delicious now, but should last through 2015.——J.C.(2/1/2008)—— 92