Caves Transmontanas Espumante Bruto Reserva (Vertice)

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1703

The 2008 Espumante Reserva “Cuvee” Bruto is principally a blend of Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Rabigato and the red grape Touriga Franca. White grape varieties account for approximately 80% of the blend. As is typical with this sparkling wine producer, this steely wine has piercing acidity and lots of power. It has a big wine feel at a small wine price. There is light toast and a hint of oxidation as well. Bone dry, it can be a bit shrill, a challenging wine, especially if you’re looking for something light, easy and elegant. The mouthwatering qualities make it linger and make it intense. While I think at a similar stage I had a preference for the better integrated 2007, this should hold nicely for a few years and it may well show better in 6-12 months if its parts can come together. There were 65,000 bottles produced. Note: In case you’re wondering what the significance of the relatively new name is, this, the regular Reserva, is now also branded as “Cuvee,” while the former Super Reserva is now known as the Millesime. Drink now-2016. In talking to the producer, I was advised that the winery produces only one still Tinto and one still Branco per year---whether it gets called “regular” or “Reserva” or “Grande Reserva” they say is a decision largely made by the results of the tastings and judgments rendered by the wine authorities in Portugal. As for the sparklers, the winery’s signature claim to fame, a vertical (1992-2001) of the higher end sparklers poured for me by the owners/winemakers in Douro was impressive in demonstrating ageworthiness for what are, after all, relatively inexpensive sparklers from a region not famed for them. Based on this demonstration, I’d suggest that 10-12 years after bottling, depending on the vintage, is reasonably safe. After that, the wines still showed considerable power, acidity, vigor and intensity – they were hardly dead – but also increasing oxidation and less forgivably some sherry notes. If you can look past that, 20 years may seem quite reasonable and it is entirely possible that the new versions may age better than the early examples. A few of these library wine notes are set forth here for historical purposes.Importer: Wine In-Motion LLC, 2421 Iorio St, 2nd Floor, Suite A, Union, NJ 07083 Tel: (908) 688-3837

The 2007 ESPUMANTE -CUVEE- RESERVA BRUTO is a blend of Codega (2%), Gouveio (18%), Malvasia Fina (35%), Rabigato (13%), Viosinho (3%) and 29% Touriga Franca. Note that that last grape is a red grape. Light on its feet and quite elegant, this nonetheless shows increasing intensity as it airs out, more depth, touches of toast, fine acidity and nice crispness on the finish. It seems fuller in the mouth after some air than it does on first taste, and its finish is succulent and mouthwatering. This is a very fine regular Reserva. While I think it will be at its best relatively fresh, there is no reason why it can't hold. In Portugal, this has a price of around 9 Euros, which makes it quite a bargain. Assuming some discounts on the shelf, the price here is pretty good, too. There were 61,030 bottles produced. Note: In case you're wondering what the significance of the new name is, the marketing now brands this, the regular Reserva, as "Cuvee," while the oddly but quite appropriately named Super Reserva will henceforth be known as the Millesime. Drink now-2016. This winery founded by the late Jack Davies of Schramsberg (although his family and company are no longer associated with Caves Transmontanas) is best known for its sparkling wines, and lately they-ve been making a statement in that area. The red wines have improved quite a bit and are quite nice now, too, and the whites are often very nice and good values, but it is hard to overlook what they achieve in sparklers. Let's just say I-ve heard -You mean this is Portuguese????- quite a few times. Alas, the new release -05 Gouveio was not received in time to include in this report. It will be supplemented in the February issue.Importer: V.O.S. Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 967-6948.

The 2006 ESPUMANTE RESERVA BRUTO (VERTICE) is principally a blend of Gouveio, Touriga Franca and Malvasia Fina, with smaller amounts of Rabigato, Viosinho and Codega, disgorged in September, 2008 after 12 months in bottle. There were 65,000 bottles made. This is a very nice performance in the vintage, a cross between the depth and power of the ’05 Super Reserva and the elegance and delicacy of the Rose reviewed this issue. This has good depth and acidity, an average finish with a touch of bitterness, and nice focus. But really—if you’re a Champagne fan, for the few extra bucks, if this is close to the style you want you may as well buy the ’05 Super Reserva. Drink now-2013. This winery founded by the late Jack Davies of Schramsberg (although his family and company are no longer associated with Caves Transmontanas) is best known for its sparkling wines. As this impressive lineup shows, they take sparklers seriously here, and there have been some real nice values as well. In the face of exchange rate fluctuations, the prices remain reasonable, although they have crept up—from a suggested retail of $14 for the 2001 Super Reserva to $20 for the 2005, for instance. The 2005 Super Reserva is still only a 13 Euro wine in Portugal.Importer: V.O.S. Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 967-6948.

This sparkling wine is an excellent value, but very differently styled. It is a blend of Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Rabigato, Viosinho, Codega and Touriga Franca. The 2004 ESPUMANTE BRUTO RESERVA (VERTICE) is not quite as dry (although still a Brut), deep or as austere as the Super Reserva. It still has excellent body for its price range, good acidity, a little toast and a nice finish. It is a very nice value. Once you get over the fact that this doesn’t taste the same as Champagne, you may find it quite interesting, rather serious and well structured for a wine in its price level. Drink now-2010. This winery is known for its sparkling wines. It was founded by the late Jack Davies of Schramsberg, although his family and company are no longer associated with Caves Transmontanas. The winery has branched out into still wines and generally does a nice job on everything at fair prices.Importer: V.O.S. Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 967-6948.