The 2007 ESPUMANTE -CUVEE- RESERVA BRUTO is a blend of Codega (2%), Gouveio (18%), Malvasia Fina (35%), Rabigato (13%), Viosinho (3%) and 29% Touriga Franca. Note that that last grape is a red grape. Light on its feet and quite elegant, this nonetheless shows increasing intensity as it airs out, more depth, touches of toast, fine acidity and nice crispness on the finish. It seems fuller in the mouth after some air than it does on first taste, and its finish is succulent and mouthwatering. This is a very fine regular Reserva. While I think it will be at its best relatively fresh, there is no reason why it can't hold. In Portugal, this has a price of around 9 Euros, which makes it quite a bargain. Assuming some discounts on the shelf, the price here is pretty good, too. There were 61,030 bottles produced. Note: In case you're wondering what the significance of the new name is, the marketing now brands this, the regular Reserva, as "Cuvee," while the oddly but quite appropriately named Super Reserva will henceforth be known as the Millesime. Drink now-2016. This winery founded by the late Jack Davies of Schramsberg (although his family and company are no longer associated with Caves Transmontanas) is best known for its sparkling wines, and lately they-ve been making a statement in that area. The red wines have improved quite a bit and are quite nice now, too, and the whites are often very nice and good values, but it is hard to overlook what they achieve in sparklers. Let's just say I-ve heard -You mean this is Portuguese????- quite a few times. Alas, the new release -05 Gouveio was not received in time to include in this report. It will be supplemented in the February issue.Importer: V.O.S. Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 967-6948.
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