Caves Transmontanas Espumante Bruto Super Reserva (Vertice)

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The 2007 ESPUMANTE BRUTO “MILLESIME - SUPER RESERVA” (VERTICE) is principally a blend of Touriga Franca (29%), Gouveio (25%) and Malvasia Fina (32%), with Rabigato (12%) and Codega (2%) added in. For this bottling, this is rather gentle this year, relatively speaking, perhaps a function of the balance and harmony generally seen in 2007. Make no mistake, though, it is not just fruity and simple. At its anticipated price, it is a very nice bargain. It provides some toast on the dry, lovely and lingering finish, along with considerable acidity, but it is mostly fresh, clean and succulent. As it warms up, its fine structure and impeccable balance become apparent. It will be interesting to see if this ages as well as some of the more intense vintages produced here. It does have the acidity, but it is in any event in a lovely, harmonious place at the moment that makes it hard to resist while young. This is branded these days in large letters as the “Millesime.” I’m advised that distribution will largely be in the New York / New Jersey region. Drink now-2017. Importer: Wine In-Motion, Union, NJ; tel: (908) 688-3837

The 2005 “MILLESIME” ESPUMANTE BRUTO SUPER RESERVA (VERTICE) is mostly Gouveio (25%), Malvasia Fina (30%) and Touriga Franca (35%), the latter a red grape, plus small amounts of traditional Douro whites Rabigato and Viosinho. Aged in bottle for 48 months, this has not given ground since I last saw it, and indeed, seems to have improved, not exactly what most people will be expecting from Portuguese sparklers. This is showing beautifully now, although it should have no problem holding nicely for several years. It is a wine that will no doubt change expectations from those not familiar with Portuguese Espumantes and it is a very worthy companion to recent siblings like the ’04 Gouveio (recently retasted, too). If the ’04 Gouveio isn’t the best wine yet from Caves Transmontanas, this would likely be the next candidate. Focused and elegant, a bit earthy and rather complex as it airs out, the acidity here grips the palate and gives the wine a succulent, crisp finish. It has a toasty note up front, ending with very fine grip and intensity on that lingering finish, which is really its best feature. It sneaks up on you and is more persistent than it seemed at first. It will be interesting to see where this goes from here; it is always possible it may yet improve more. It still seems youthful and vigorous. There were 40,000 bottles produced. Note: This was previously just marketed simply as the “Super Reserva,” whereas the main branding and identification now is “Millesime.” You can still see the words “Super Reserva” on the neck label, though. Drink now-2015. Importer: V.O.S. Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 967-6948.

The 2001 Espumante Super Reserva Bruto (Vertice) is, I believe, the earliest example I originally saw from the winery when I started covering these sparklers. It is still lovely, focused and elegant, gorgeously balanced and drinking quite well. If anything, it impressed me a bit more now than when I first saw it and it probably deserves an elongated drinking window now. Combining grace and power, it leaves little unsaid as a statement for Douro sparklers. It is as good as it will get now, so drink up and be conservative in terms of how much longer you hold it until it proves otherwise. Drink now-2014. In talking to the producer, I was advised that the winery produces only one still Tinto and one still Branco per year---whether it gets called “regular” or “Reserva” or “Grande Reserva” they say is a decision largely made by the results of the tastings and judgments rendered by the wine authorities in Portugal. As for the sparklers, the winery’s signature claim to fame, a vertical (1992-2001) of the higher end sparklers poured for me by the owners/winemakers in Douro was impressive in demonstrating ageworthiness for what are, after all, relatively inexpensive sparklers from a region not famed for them. Based on this demonstration, I’d suggest that 10-12 years after bottling, depending on the vintage, is reasonably safe. After that, the wines still showed considerable power, acidity, vigor and intensity – they were hardly dead – but also increasing oxidation and less forgivably some sherry notes. If you can look past that, 20 years may seem quite reasonable and it is entirely possible that the new versions may age better than the early examples. A few of these library wine notes are set forth here for historical purposes.Importer: Wine In-Motion LLC, 2421 Iorio St, 2nd Floor, Suite A, Union, NJ 07083 Tel: (908) 688-3837

The 2000 Espumante Super Reserva Bruto (Vertice) is big and powerful, bottled with no dosage. Like the 1999, there is just a hint that it has reached full maturity and should ideally be drunk soon, but it is a big, big wine with great structure and power, and lots to offer still before it passes prime. Drink up. In talking to the producer, I was advised that the winery produces only one still Tinto and one still Branco per year---whether it gets called “regular” or “Reserva” or “Grande Reserva” they say is a decision largely made by the results of the tastings and judgments rendered by the wine authorities in Portugal. As for the sparklers, the winery’s signature claim to fame, a vertical (1992-2001) of the higher end sparklers poured for me by the owners/winemakers in Douro was impressive in demonstrating ageworthiness for what are, after all, relatively inexpensive sparklers from a region not famed for them. Based on this demonstration, I’d suggest that 10-12 years after bottling, depending on the vintage, is reasonably safe. After that, the wines still showed considerable power, acidity, vigor and intensity – they were hardly dead – but also increasing oxidation and less forgivably some sherry notes. If you can look past that, 20 years may seem quite reasonable and it is entirely possible that the new versions may age better than the early examples. A few of these library wine notes are set forth here for historical purposes.Importer: Wine In-Motion LLC, 2421 Iorio St, 2nd Floor, Suite A, Union, NJ 07083 Tel: (908) 688-3837

The 1999 Espumante Grande Reserva Bruto (Vertice) is the point where the winery turns the corner in terms of ageworthiness. Although there are slight hints of sherry here and there, this has piercing acidity and is drinking well, very tasty and rather charming. It won’t last much longer in good form, I suspect, but it is a pretty good example of an aged Douro sparkler. Drink now. In talking to the producer, I was advised that the winery produces only one still Tinto and one still Branco per year---whether it gets called “regular” or “Reserva” or “Grande Reserva” they say is a decision largely made by the results of the tastings and judgments rendered by the wine authorities in Portugal. As for the sparklers, the winery’s signature claim to fame, a vertical (1992-2001) of the higher end sparklers poured for me by the owners/winemakers in Douro was impressive in demonstrating ageworthiness for what are, after all, relatively inexpensive sparklers from a region not famed for them. Based on this demonstration, I’d suggest that 10-12 years after bottling, depending on the vintage, is reasonably safe. After that, the wines still showed considerable power, acidity, vigor and intensity – they were hardly dead – but also increasing oxidation and less forgivably some sherry notes. If you can look past that, 20 years may seem quite reasonable and it is entirely possible that the new versions may age better than the early examples. A few of these library wine notes are set forth here for historical purposes.Importer: Wine In-Motion LLC, 2421 Iorio St, 2nd Floor, Suite A, Union, NJ 07083 Tel: (908) 688-3837