The 2005 “MILLESIME” ESPUMANTE BRUTO SUPER RESERVA (VERTICE) is mostly Gouveio (25%), Malvasia Fina (30%) and Touriga Franca (35%), the latter a red grape, plus small amounts of traditional Douro whites Rabigato and Viosinho. Aged in bottle for 48 months, this has not given ground since I last saw it, and indeed, seems to have improved, not exactly what most people will be expecting from Portuguese sparklers. This is showing beautifully now, although it should have no problem holding nicely for several years. It is a wine that will no doubt change expectations from those not familiar with Portuguese Espumantes and it is a very worthy companion to recent siblings like the ’04 Gouveio (recently retasted, too). If the ’04 Gouveio isn’t the best wine yet from Caves Transmontanas, this would likely be the next candidate. Focused and elegant, a bit earthy and rather complex as it airs out, the acidity here grips the palate and gives the wine a succulent, crisp finish. It has a toasty note up front, ending with very fine grip and intensity on that lingering finish, which is really its best feature. It sneaks up on you and is more persistent than it seemed at first. It will be interesting to see where this goes from here; it is always possible it may yet improve more. It still seems youthful and vigorous. There were 40,000 bottles produced. Note: This was previously just marketed simply as the “Super Reserva,” whereas the main branding and identification now is “Millesime.” You can still see the words “Super Reserva” on the neck label, though. Drink now-2015. Importer: V.O.S. Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 967-6948.