Cuilleron is a brilliant white wine maker, but he also displays a deft touch when it comes to making elegant, supple, pure, attractive reds. His 1994 St.-Joseph Cuvee Prestige exhibits a deep color, as well as attractive toasty, new oak, black-cherry, and cassis aromas. This low acid, soft, ripe, wine offers a delicious, elegant, supple mouthful of Syrah fruit. Drink it during its first 7-8 years of life. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Cuilleron is a brilliant white wine maker, but he also displays a deft touch when it comes to making elegant, supple, pure, attractive reds. The 1993 St.-Joseph Cuvee Prestige begins with an attractive, ripe, earthy, spicy nose and an initial attack of moderately ripe fruit, but the vintage's harsh, nasty side makes its appearance with mouth-blistering tannin and an absence of fruit. This is a correct, decent effort for this difficult year, but it is out of balance. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 1992 St.-Joseph Cuvee Prestige is made from Cuilleron's oldest vines. Its healthy dark ruby/purple color is accompanied by a broad aromatic display of black fruits, herbs, and vanilla. Wonderfully rich, expansive, and concentrated, this full-bodied, velvety-textured wine should drink well for a decade. It is a terrific and reasonably priced wine. Importer: Neal Rosenthal Select Vineyards, New York, NY; Tel. (212) 249-6650

There is a spicy, peppery, herbal side to the abundant quantities of cassis fruit found in the 1991 St.-Joseph Cuvee Prestige. The wine is finely tuned, with admirable underlying acidity, excellent concentration, and a rich, medium to full-bodied, long, moderately tannic finish. It will undoubtedly turn out to be as good as the 1992, although it is more structured and firmer. This is a terrific and reasonably priced wine. Importer: Neal Rosenthal Select Vineyards, New York, NY; Tel. (212) 249-6650