Cuilleron deserves more recognition; he has become one of the better producers of Condrieu. The 1989 St.-Joseph is a straightforward, monolithic, spicy, gamey style of St.-Joseph that leans toward the rustic style of winemaking. While there is plenty of tannin and grip, it may be lacking enough sweet fruit to cover the structure. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, New York, NY.