The 2008 Dolcetto d-Alba Vigna Melera comes across as a touch lighter than the 2009 Vigna Scot. Dried flowers, red berries, earthiness and spices are some of the notes that emerge from this mid-weight, feminine Dolcetto. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. It's tough to go wrong with pretty much anything from Cavallotto these days. The estate's entry-level wines offer nearly as much pleasure as the higher-end wines, but at far more soothing prices. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2007 Dolcetto d’Alba Vigna Melera is a gorgeous, perfumed Dolcetto with silky tannins that frame a core of expressive red berries. This medium-bodied offering reveals terrific length in an understated, refined style. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

Cavallotto's 2006 Dolcetto d-Alba Vigna Melera is a big, full-bodied Dolcetto loaded with super-ripe dark fruit, chocolate, licorice and spices. It offers terrific density with a touch less elegance and harmony than the estate's Dolcetto d-Alba Vigna Scot. The Vigna Melera is made from vines averaging 40 years of age and is aged in cask. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2003 Dolcetto d’Alba Vigna Melera was frankly a surprise for me, as I have never thought of this house in terms of this grape. There’s always something to learn, however, and the focused cherry fruit, the floral and almond aromas, the volume and sweetness are those of high level Dolcetto. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411