Normally a solid but unspectacular performer, Castello di Monsanto’s “starter” Chianti struts its stuff in this down vintage (maybe some pedigreed grapes were declassified, thus making Alaura better). Regardless, it delivers spicy cola, leather and tobacco aromas along with forward plum and berry fruit. The balance is correct and the feel is deeper than what we recall. ——W.E.(4/1/2005)—— 89