Packaged in a precious 375-milliliter bottle, the Castello di Bossi 2007 Vin San Laurentino pours forth with thick viscosity and a dark, almost brown amber color. That color comes from the DNA of the grapes, that in this case are a blend of Sangiovese and Trebbiano aged for a very long nine years in small oak barrels called “caratelli.” The bouquet is nothing short of explosive in intensity with maple syrup, brown sugar, molasses, raisin and apricot syrup. Toast, spice and vanilla bean (the kind that sticks to your fingers) are woven tightly into the beautifully rich, and softly sweet finish. It's hard to assign a drinking window to a wine that is basically indestructible.

The 2004 Vin Santo San Laurentino is a unique dessert wine with a fascinating rainbow of aromas that spans from canned peach to dried mint. In between, you get toasted almond, oak, sweet caramel and candied fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025. In my estimation, Marco Bacci’s Castello di Bossi delivers one of the absolute best interpretations of Chianti Classico from the Castelnuovo Berardenga subzone. Temperatures are a few degrees warmer here on average and soils are slightly richer and redder. These conditions favor dark and powerful wines. The challenge is maintaining balance and freshness – things regularly achieved in Marco Bacci’s wines. Importer: Winebow Inc.; www.winebow.com

The 2003 Vin San Laurentino comes across as surprisingly restrained considering the vintage and its whopping 300 grams per liter of residual sugar. The San Laurentino remains one of the most exotic, rich sweet wines being made in the Vin Santo style, but the 2003 isn’t quite as in-your-face as other recent vintages have been. There are plenty of the dark, burnished, balsamic flavors that are typical of this wine, but the estate has also managed to retain quite a bit of freshness as well. The 2003 is 50% Sangiovese, 25% Trebbiano and 25% Malvasia Bianca that spent 8 years in small 150-liter Vin Santo caratelli. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2023. These new releases from Castello di Bossi and consulting oenologist Alberto Antonini are off the charts. Prices remain very reasonable considering the quality of what is in the glass. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2002 Vin San Laurentino is an unusual dessert wine for many reasons. The first is the heavy reliance on Sangiovese, which accounts for 50% of the blend, along with 25% Trebbiano and 25% Malvasia. The second is a very long elevage of 8 years in new 150 liter French oak barrels. The resulting wine flows from the glass with stunning density and richness, with layers of exotic coconut, spices, dried flowers, licorice and maple syrup. Despite its massive concentration and whopping 288 grams of residual sugar, the 2002 is remarkably well-balanced for a wine of this size. The 2002 Vin San Laurentino is best enjoyed on its own. I imagine its aging potential is virtually unlimited. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2022+. Proprietor Marco Bacci makes a wide range of wines across his properties in Tuscany, but those of Castello di Bossi lead the way when it comes to quality and consistency. These are rich, textured wines that in most cases can handle fairly high amounts of new French oak. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2001 Vin San Laurentino emerges – or rather oozes – from the glass with scents of toffee, espresso, baking spices, and dried flowers. With a staggering 288 grams of residual sugar, the San Laurentino saturates the palate from start to finish in a rich, opulent style that must be tasted to be believed. The 2001 doesn’t quite match the level of the profound 2000, but it comes awfully close. The Vin San Laurentino is 50% Sangiovese, 25% Trebbiano and 25% Malvasia that spent eight years in small oak caratelli. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Readers would do well to check out these new wines from Castello di Bossi, which are easily some of the most exciting reds made in Tuscany in 2006. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620