The 2004 Quattrocentenario 1596/1996 is 100% Sangiovese. This dark, full-bodied offering reveals considerable intensity in its dark fruit, earthiness, spices and tobacco. The wine possesses plenty of depth and stuffing although the tannins could use a touch more silkiness and polish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880

Cherry, violet fragrance that is most attractive and poised. Fresh, elegant, stylish. Full and beautifully balanced.

The medium-bodied 2003 Quattrocentenario (100% Sangiovese) is easily the best of these reds. It exhibits much vibrancy on the palate, with perfumed aromatics and elegant layers of spicy dark fruit. Sweet, spiced notes from the oak will need another year or two to integrate into the wine. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Importer, Vidalco International, LLC, Dunbar, WV; tel. (304) 377-1000

The 2001 Quattrocentenario presents the house’s best Sangiovese and is an impressive wine, very spicy in its expression of coconut, cardamom, and nutmeg-laced raspberry and currant fruit, powerful and dense on the palate, very long and focused in character. It will drink well for another dozen years. After a generally strong series of wines in the 1990s, Castello della Paneretta hit a rough patch in 1999 and 2000 with wines which were excessively rustic and funky. Happily, things seem back on track with the 2001 wines, a welcome notice, as the vineyards, located between Isole e Olena and Monsanto, are some of the finest in the entire appellation. Importer: Admiralty Beverage Co., Portland, OR; tel. (503) 289-9600