The 2013 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico S. Niccolo (packaged in a 375-millilter bottle) has an earthy quality that recalls wild Porcino mushroom or tilled earth. There is plenty of candied fruit as well with honey and caramel spread over a thick, sweet finish. The blend of grapes is 60% Trebbiano Toscano and 40% Malvasia Bianca, and the wine ages in chestnut wood caratelli (very small barrels) for five long years. Production is only 3,500 bottles.

The 2010 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico S. Niccolo (375 ml) is a gorgeous expression. It ages for five years in small oak caratelli and represents a blend of 60% Malvasia Bianca and 40% Trebbiano Toscano with 16% alcohol. The bouquet is beautifully redolent of caramel, candied fruit, honey, toasted almond and sponge cake. The wine feels rich and super velvety on the finish. This is a precious dessert wine from Tuscany.

The 2009 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico S. Niccolò (750 ml) is a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia aged for five years in small oak barrels called caratelli. This dessert wine is enormously intense from an aromatic point of view with dried apricot, honey, caramel, brown sugar and button mushroom. The mouthfeel is rich, long and extra silky. I was able to watch the air-drying process for this wine during my visit to Castellare di Castellina, and can confirm that Vin Santo is one of the most labor-intensive wines made in Italy. Each drop is precious.