The 2008 MALVASIA is 100% oak aged in used oak for 11 months. Powerful on opening and relatively focused and penetrating, the oak here dominates the flavor profile of the wine, giving it a brooding feel with an overlay that makes it hard to find the fruit. It does have a certain Burgundian feel to it at times, but as it warms up it seems to taste mostly of oak. Well done in many respects, though, its main flaw is its price point. Colares is an interesting region, a little obscure and a bit in disarray even in Portugal, but in the USA, this is going to be hard to sell at this price level. Drink now-2015. These wines are part of Joe Veselko’s (formerly having worked at Pocas) Wine Project Portugal import venture, designed to showcase various Portuguese regions and grapes. The Casca winemakers are Frederico Gomes (formerly of Herdade da Malhadinha Nova) and Helder Cunha, who worked at Kent Rasmussen and Vinhos Borges. The Monte Cascas brand label means “pile of shells,” very loosely, the origin of the name for Cascais, the winemakers’ home town, not far from Lisbon. The Cape Roca brand label, with various maritime and nautical themes like “boat” and “fisherman,” references Portugal’s connection with the Atlantic Ocean, as Cape Roca is the westernmost point of the European continent. The Cape Roca wines are meant to be a little more approachable and accessible to the average consumer. They tend to be made in greater quantities and are often at lower price points—at the least, the ultra premium wines are under the Monte Cascas label. Finally, make sure you’re looking at the right region in the reviews. There may be more than one 2008 Casca Reserva Tinto, for example—one from Douro, one from Alentejo, etc.Importer: Laurel Importers, Bristol, R.I.; tel: (401) 396-9661