The 2009 BRANCO “CAPE ROCA – FISHERMAN” from the Lisboa appellation is screwcapped and 100% Arinto. Pleasant, clean and fruity, with a little crispness underlying it, this is a charming, easygoing wine for immediate consumption. There is not much concentration and not much finish. It will be early maturing, best drunk on release. Take it for what it is, drink in hot weather, you’ll be pleased. The longer you hold it, the less happy you’ll be. Drink now-2011. These wines are part of Joe Veselko’s (formerly having worked at Pocas) Wine Project Portugal import venture, designed to showcase various Portuguese regions and grapes. The Casca winemakers are Frederico Gomes (formerly of Herdade da Malhadinha Nova) and Helder Cunha, who worked at Kent Rasmussen and Vinhos Borges. The Monte Cascas brand label means “pile of shells,” very loosely, the origin of the name for Cascais, the winemakers’ home town, not far from Lisbon. The Cape Roca brand label, with various maritime and nautical themes like “boat” and “fisherman,” references Portugal’s connection with the Atlantic Ocean, as Cape Roca is the westernmost point of the European continent. The Cape Roca wines are meant to be a little more approachable and accessible to the average consumer. They tend to be made in greater quantities and are often at lower price points—at the least, the ultra premium wines are under the Monte Cascas label. Finally, make sure you’re looking at the right region in the reviews. There may be more than one 2008 Casca Reserva Tinto, for example—one from Douro, one from Alentejo, etc.Importer: Laurel Importers, Bristol, R.I.; tel: (401) 396-9661

The NV BRANCO “CAPE ROCA – FISHERMAN” is 60% Loureiro and 40% Arinto, clocking in at 10.4% alcohol. This is showing beautifully in its youth, fruity yet crisp, with a nice little burst of acidity. It may hold longer, but it is the type of wine that will always be at its best when young and fresh—like now. Note that the “selo de garantia” label on the back has this release listed as “…/2011.” Drink now-2013.Importer: Laurel Importers, Bristol, R.I.; tel. (401) 396-9661