The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Cuvee Gemelli emerges from the glass with sumptuous layers of perfumed dark fruit, menthol, spices and licorice. The richness of the fruit is nicely balanced with the tannins all the way through to the expansive, elegant finish. There is a warmth to the fruit that is particularly attractive. The Riserva Cuvee Gemelli is a selection of the best barrels in the cellar. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. Casanuova delle Cerbaie has two outstanding wines in the market this year. Both Brunellos are made from three vineyards in the northern section of Montalcino. Importer: Castle Brands, New York, NY; tel. (646) 356-0216