If you’re tired of sweet, soft California reds, turn here. The wine is dry and acidic. It’s also a bit hot, with a baked fruit, raisiny edge to the cherry fruit, but it does have an elegant complexity. Drink now. ——S.H.(7/1/2006)—— 85

This is a deeper, earthier style of Pinot, clearly from a cool climate. You’ll find plenty of cherries, but there are mulchy, mushroomy notes, veering into rhubarb, as well as some tannins. The mouthfeel is silky and light, and the wine is very dry. ——S.H.(10/1/2005)—— 90

Identical scores from all tasters for this big, dark, rich wine, which is filled with oaky, blackberry and mocha flavors. It’s big, tannic and dense now, heavy in the mouth, but is likely to soften and turn supple with a few years in the bottle. ——W.E.(11/1/2004)—— 87