It is not exactly clear how Gioia Cresti, the owner-winemaker of this estate near Siena, manages to reconcile her multifarious consulting work with the demands of her own vineyards, but the wines testify to the fact she manages to square the circle with the greatest of ease. Three wines are produced, all entirely different, and the 2003 Chianti Colli Senesi is the regular bottling, carefree, uncomplicated drinking pleasure which emphasizes fruit, softness, and crisp energy. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 2002 Chianti Colli Senesi, bursting with cherry and red currant fruit, soft but with good length and continuity on the finish, is an ideal trattoria wine and a notable success for this very damp vintage. Italy’s foxiest consulting oenologist? Beyond a shadow of a doubt, it’s Gioia Cresti, who is also in charge of the winemaking at her family’s estate just north of Siena and can demonstrate that her talents in the cellar are equal to her formidable good looks. Drink: now-2006. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907