The 2010 White Wine Compagni Portis is a striking wine. Exotic spices, lime, white flowers and other notes from the aromatic varieties emerge from the glass in this layered, gorgeous wine. The blocked malolactic fermentation gives the wine much of its energy. This is all finesse and class. The Compagni Portis is a field blend predominantly composed of Gewurztraminer, Trosseau Gris and Riesling. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. This is a fabulous set of wines from Mike Officer and Carlisle. Best of all, the wines remain very reasonably priced considering the quality and passion that goes into the bottle. Along with Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock, Mike Officer is focused on seeking out the finest old-vine sites in California, which have either been neglected over the years, or are being bought by large-scale wineries who have little interest in discovering the quirks of these very old vineyards, most of which are planted with field blends that truly harken back to another era. The wines are made with indigenous yeasts and aged in French oak barrels, usually in the 20-30% range. I tasted all of the 2010s from barrel the day before they were scheduled to be moved into tank.Tel. (707) 566-7700; www.carlislewinery.com