More smoke, tar and licorice show up in the 2011 Syrah Sierra Mar Vineyard with more lavender and black olive emerging with time in the glass. Rich, decadent and voluptuous, with big structure, it’s not quite as backwards or formidable as the Rosella’s, with more overall ripeness, and should be approachable at an earlier age. Nevertheless, 2-3 years of bottle age are recommended and it should cruise for 10-12 years after the vintage. Drink 2015-2021+. This was a formidable, structured set of wines by proprietor Mike Officer. Firm and tannic, they’re incredibly impressive, just not that much fun to drink at the moment. They’ll handsomely reward cellar time and are highly recommended. Tel. (707) 566-7700; www.carlislewinery.com

Layers of black fruit jump from the glass in the 2010 Syrah Sierra Mar Vineyard. This is an especially vinous, perfumed Syrah that stands out for its forward juiciness and hugely appealing personality. Frankly, it is hard to put the glass down. The 2010 is the first vintage from a site in the Santa Lucia Highlands developed by Gary Franscioni and planted with Alban clones that is already proving to be a source of remarkable, expressive wines. With time in the glass, the 2010 turns dark, inward and brooding, as hints of graphite and crushed rock frame the finish. Proprietor Mike Officer used 33% whole clusters on the Sierra Mar. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Proprietor Mike Officer arrived with a bevy of wines for our tasting, all of which I was thrilled to sample. Readers who don’t think terroir exists in California should check out the Carlisle Zinfandels and Syrahs, many of which emerge from old-vine, heritage sites that nearly disappeared until Officer and some of his peers rescued them from the brink of oblivion. In particular, the 2011 Zinfandels are fabulous. Officer describes 2011 as a very late harvest. The Syrahs were all picked after the rains, while the thinner-skinned Zinfandels naturally came in quite a bit earlier. Officer told me he performed a severe selection of fruit that took with it a full 50% of the production. For his efforts, Officer has been rewarded with a set of gorgeous wines, although I imagine his faithful clientele won’t be too thrilled with the lower production levels of these wines, given their already minuscule production. Unfortunately, 2011 Compagni Portis and Gruner Veltliner were to be bottled right after this tasting, so I will have to wait until another opportunity to sample those wines. Carlisle is resolute in keeping his wines affordable, a commendable approach I wish were more common throughout California. Tel. (707) 566-7700

The 2010 Syrah Sierra Mar Vineyard, from Gary Franscioni's spectacular hillside vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands, is a great first effort. There is plenty of richness and depth in the fruit. Spices, cracked pepper and white flowers develop in the glass. This is a terrific wine from these young vineyards planted just a few years ago. I can-t wait to see the direction this bottling takes over the coming years and hopefully decades. The Sierra Mar is 100% Syrah, vinified with 33% whole clusters. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. This is a fabulous set of wines from Mike Officer and Carlisle. Best of all, the wines remain very reasonably priced considering the quality and passion that goes into the bottle. Along with Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock, Mike Officer is focused on seeking out the finest old-vine sites in California, which have either been neglected over the years, or are being bought by large-scale wineries who have little interest in discovering the quirks of these very old vineyards, most of which are planted with field blends that truly harken back to another era. The wines are made with indigenous yeasts and aged in French oak barrels, usually in the 20-30% range. I tasted all of the 2010s from barrel the day before they were scheduled to be moved into tank.Tel. (707) 566-7700; www.carlislewinery.com