Made with no oak at all and full malolactic fermentation, this plummy and correct wine has the right flavors and feel. There’s cocoa, a slight herb note, and a brisk finish, too. As one taster said with a smile, “It really tastes like Merlot.” That’s more than can be said about too many other inexpensive examples. Best Buy.——W.E.(12/1/2000)—— 86