The 2014 Dolcetto d'Alba Lodoli is a sweet, almost tender, expression of this popular Piedmont variety. What this wine lacks in complexity, it makes up for in terms of exuberance and primary fruit. Sweet cherry and candied fruit emerge from the bouquet.

The 2012 Dolcetto d’Alba Lodoli shows loads of dark fruit character with dusty tones of crushed mineral and white pepper that keep it from getting too chewy or jammy. This Dolcetto shows impressive control and focus. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2015. Giulio Grasso’s family entered the wine business “l(fā)ate,” as he tells it, because his male ancestors were soldiers in the various World Wars. Only after the turmoil in Europe settled, in the mid 1950s, did the family start to bottle wine. The estate’s most precious vineyard, the three hectares they own in the Asili cru, was a wedding dowry from Giulio’s grandmother (from Barbaresco) to his grandfather (from Treiso). Today, the family owns 25 hectares including the Valgrande and Marcarini crus in Treiso and the Asili and Pora crus in Barbaresco. Giulio’s father, Ernesto, farms the vineyards today at age 91.The Ca’ del Baio line-up is extremely impressive and delightful. These are some of the best wines from Barbaresco. Importer: Casa Bruno, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 235-7429; Bertin Henri Selections; tel. (305) 343-4054