The 2003 Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre Nielson/McMurray Vineyards does not display the weight, texture, or length of the 2002. Shorter and more clipped, it exhibits an aggressive influence of vanillin/new oak. Tel. (805) 937-7288

My favorite offering of this quartet is the 2002 Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre (95%, 1%, and 4% respectively) from the Nielson Vineyard. A complex, smoky, bacon fat, black currant, and cherry-scented bouquet soars from the glass of this supple-textured, broadly-flavored, expansive, dark ruby/purple-colored wine. With well-integrated sweet oak, an opulent personality, and a lovely, long aftertaste, this beauty can be consumed now and over the next 5-6 years. Tel. (805) 937-7288

The dark ruby-colored 2000 IO Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre (86%, 9%, and 5% respectively) exhibits a complex bouquet of mushrooms, new saddle leather, black cherries, and currants with a resiny element in the background. Nicely-textured and medium-bodied, with authoritative flavors as well as a clean, vibrant finish, it will drink well for 4-5 years.Tel. (805) 937-7288

This Rhone blend from Robert Mondavi-owned Byron contains 80% Syrah and smaller amounts of Grenache and Mourvedre from the Santa Maria and Santa Ynez valleys. It’s a dark, young, brooding wine. There are impressive berry and dark stone-fruit flavors encased in thick but fine tannins, although the wine is a little soft. It possesses elegant complexity. ——S.H.(12/1/2002)—— 92