The brilliant 2007 Syrah Upper Bench is undoubtedly IO’s finest wine to date. Its inky/purple hue is accompanied by aromas of charcoal, graphite, blueberries, blackberries, flowers, forest floor, and incense, an opulent, full-bodied style, silky tannin, and a layered, multidimensional mouthfeel. This terrific Syrah can be drunk now or cellared for a decade or more. Very impressive!This is the finest group of wines I have yet tasted from IO. Perhaps it is a sign that the greater independence they achieved after the sale of the Robert Mondavi winery has given them the flexibility they need to seek higher and higher quality.Tel. (805) 938-7365

Backward and dense is the inky/purple-tinged 2004 Syrah Upper Bench (from the Nielson and McMurray vineyards). It is a big, formidably endowed effort displaying copious licorice, cassis, forest floor, and flowery notes. Give this full-bodied, rich, deep, moderately tannic Syrah another year of bottle age, and consume it over the following 7-8. Tel. (707) 967-1827

The 2003 Syrah Upper Bench Nielson/McMurray Vineyards possesses notes of lead pencil shavings in addition to blueberry and raspberry fruit, an elegant personality, good acidity, medium body, and a feminine, restrained style. It should drink well for 5-7 years. Tel. (805) 937-7288