The light gold colored 2007 Semillon has a complex aromatic array of lanolin, wax, mineral, and floral notes. Smooth-textured, ripe, and vibrant, this precisely balanced effort should evolve for several years and drink well through 2017. Burge Family Winemakers is impeccably operated by the veteran vigneron Rick Burge. All of the fruit is estate grown with some of the vineyards over 80 years of age. Burge’s Semillon is usually a benchmark for the varietal and has excellent aging potential in the manner of a top Pessac-Leognan Blanc.Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (805) 278-9095; www.burgefamily.com.au

The 2005 Semillon was matured 50% in tank and 50% in seasoned French oak. It is light gold in color with aromas of candle wax, honeysuckle, lemon-lime, and hints of tropical fruits in the background. This leads to a medium-bodied, smooth-textured, succulent Semillon with excellent balance and a long, full-flavored finish. It will match well with crab cakes and lobster. Drink it over the next 2-3 years although it may well last for a decade given its richness and impeccable balance. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; www.burgefamily.com.au

The 2004 Semillon possesses a bright, lemon oil and citrus-scented bouquet, an intensely flavored attack and mid-palate, and crisp acidity. Enjoy this beauty over the next 2-3 years. Readers should not confuse Burge Family Winemakers (one of Australia’s finest wineries) with the much larger firm of Grant Burge. Burge Family Winemakers’ old vine estate-bottled offerings, made by the modest, but enormously talented Rick Burge, are classic Barossa wines with extraordinary elegance as well as complex aromatics that combine European subtlety with Australian power.Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283

The 1998 Semillon, from the family's Alicot Vineyard, is a powerful (13.8% alcohol), lanolin, waxy, citrusy Semillon with medium to full body, nearly outstanding depth, and fine purity and overall balance. It begs for fish as an accompaniment to its chewy flavors. I realize Australian Semillons are alleged to possess uncommonly long lives, but my palate prefers them in their exuberantly fruity youth - 2-3 years.The wine emerges from the estate's vineyards, and the well-known Rolf Binder (of Veritas fame) is the consulting winemaker. This is a superb source for highly flavorful, intense wines.Importer: Dan Phillips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283