Bouchard’s 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres – from purchased fruit – resembles its Champ Gain sibling in richness and warmth, except that the latter is not entirely metaphorical in this instance. Along with smoky toast in the finish comes a hint of heat (despite only 13.5% alcohol) that I seldom noted in this year’s Bouchard collection. That said, I don’t wish to under-estimate the appeal of this wine’s textural sumptuousness and ripe peach and pineapple fruit, even if they are embedded in a context that is not especially vintage-typical. I would anticipate it being best enjoyed over the next 4-5 years. Philippe Prost’s late-August starting date for the 2007 white harvest reflects not simply the enormous acreage over which Bouchard holds sway. (In fact, they can muster correspondingly large forces and their gargantuan facility with its battery of presses can handle the harvest in ten days if need be.) It is also a function of assiduous yield control that promotes ripening, and of a professed interest in capturing freshness and vivacity. Furthermore, picking extended for 18 days, until mid-September, and most of the estate’s top sites were brought in near the end. And with the exception of a Pouilly-Fuisse rendered from contract fruit, none of the 2007 whites here were chaptalized. Most came in a bit over 13% alcohol and – as Prost asserts and his wines testify – with excellent phenolic maturity. Prost prefers to avoid sulfuring the fruit or must, letting it darken from oxidation during its period of skin contact and settling because, in his view, not only the color but the flavors bounce back as soon as the juice starts fermenting, and the resulting wine is both more expressive and more stable. “You know,” he says by way of general commentary on the evolution of Bouchard vinification, “a few years ago we were too concerned to be clean and clinical” with the result that “the wines were closed,” especially in their youth. No one could level that charge at the wines now, even if some are subtle and understated. The question now – just as at other Burgundy addresses – is how white wines from the last several vintages will age. Among many recent changes made at Bouchard in the name (dare I interject, “hope”?) of reducing instances of premature oxidation and bottle variation are blanketing the assembled wines in nitrogen, a sophisticated new bottling protocol, and the use of Diam (specially treated composite) corks for village level wines and dense corks from Sardinia for crus. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767

Saline, meaty underlying characteristics mark the 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres as a less flattering and some will think “more serious” wine than its predecessors in Bouchard’s line-up. The mouth-feel is correspondingly firm and the finish both slightly austerely stony and slightly warm. When I tasted it, prior to bottling, this undeniably well-concentrated Puligny may have been hiding its potential virtues. In keeping with what he says are his usual intuitions, Philippe Prost picked early – bringing in Chardonnay ahead of Pinot Noir for the first time at Bouchard since 1989 – so as to retain freshness as well as what he termed “the sense of minerality in a vintage of very ripe fruit. But in 1989,” he hastens to add, “yields were perhaps overly generous, whereas in 2006 they are quite reasonable.” The results are consistently impressive. New barrels are generally “seasoned” here through use in wines of lesser appellation (other portions of which are frequently raised in tank), as Prost prefers to employ second year barrels for most of his crus. Injections of inert gas at bottling are among the techniques being used to protect the young wines here from oxidation. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY

New oak is intermingled with gravel in the aromatic profile of the 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres. Light to medium-bodied, satiny-textured, and fleshy, this is a fresh, spicy wine with flavors of mocha and pears. Anticipated maturity: now-2011. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575