New oak is intermingled with gravel in the aromatic profile of the 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres. Light to medium-bodied, satiny-textured, and fleshy, this is a fresh, spicy wine with flavors of mocha and pears. Anticipated maturity: now-2011. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

The Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres reveals sweet, toasty aromas of honeysuckle blossoms. This medium-to-full-bodied wine offers loads of toasted hazelnuts and ripe pears in its fat, rich, and tangy character. It is a thick, dense, and opulently-textured wine. Drink it over the next 5 years. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 888-7575.