Bouchard Pere & Fils Clos Vougeot, Cote de Nuits, France

寶尚父子伏舊園干紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：6183

The Bouchard domaine 2008 Clos Vougeot Domaine Bouchard – from one parcel high-up in the Plante de l’Abbaye, and another low but against the wall of the clos – smells of cedar, licorice, blond tobacco, sandalwood, dark cherry, and black raspberry. Rich and sapid in fruit; deeply, cleanly meaty; savory and invigorating in its salinity and its recapitulation of themes sounded in the nose, this has surprisingly much in common with the virtues of the corresponding non-estate-bottled Clos Vougeot. Saliva-inducing and tongue quivering in finish, it superbly demonstrates the vibrancy to which 2008 vintage Pinots can aspire, and should be worth following for two decades. Director-winemaker Philippe Prost made no attempt to minimize the challenges of 2008 and was careful to distinguish between its wind-borne concentration and genuinely ideal phenolic maturity (approached more nearly this year in white than red). He opined that the wide window afforded for relaxed picking despite the late calendar date was critical, since the levels of ripeness were so disparate from one site to another. That said, he showed me an outstanding collection of Pinots. Ironically, as he pointed out, ripeness was also disparate in one of the two earliest vintages on record, 2007, yet picking – while fitful – was anything but relaxed due to the pressure of rot. And here, too, Bouchard scored excellent successes. By means of, where necessary, “swapping lees” between barrels to inoculate stubborn lots, Prost says he was able to get all of his 2008s through malo-lactic conversion in timely fashion, which he considers especially important with Pinot. Bottling of the 2008 reds – with a few exceptions mentioned in my notes and due to have been bottled in April – took place in December and January, the same schedule adopted for their 2007s. I did not have an opportunity to taste nearly all of Bouchard’s vast collection from either vintage, and have in the text of my notes indicated a few from among their 2008s that I take to represent significant omissions. (I have not noted “Domaine” to distinguish those wines that are part of the Bouchard, except in cases where there is another otherwise eponymous wine.)Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767

Bouchard’s 2008 Clos Vougeot – from contract fruit, and not to be confused with their estate bottling from this cru – smells of roasted meats; ripe dark cherry and plum; salt, crushed stone, and iodine. Its generous fruit persists into a satisfying, long finish of lip-smacking salinity. While this is not a profound exemplar of its famous clos, the present instance admirably extends a streak of successes with this bottling. It will probably perform well for 8-10 years. Director-winemaker Philippe Prost made no attempt to minimize the challenges of 2008 and was careful to distinguish between its wind-borne concentration and genuinely ideal phenolic maturity (approached more nearly this year in white than red). He opined that the wide window afforded for relaxed picking despite the late calendar date was critical, since the levels of ripeness were so disparate from one site to another. That said, he showed me an outstanding collection of Pinots. Ironically, as he pointed out, ripeness was also disparate in one of the two earliest vintages on record, 2007, yet picking – while fitful – was anything but relaxed due to the pressure of rot. And here, too, Bouchard scored excellent successes. By means of, where necessary, “swapping lees” between barrels to inoculate stubborn lots, Prost says he was able to get all of his 2008s through malo-lactic conversion in timely fashion, which he considers especially important with Pinot. Bottling of the 2008 reds – with a few exceptions mentioned in my notes and due to have been bottled in April – took place in December and January, the same schedule adopted for their 2007s. I did not have an opportunity to taste nearly all of Bouchard’s vast collection from either vintage, and have in the text of my notes indicated a few from among their 2008s that I take to represent significant omissions. (I have not noted “Domaine” to distinguish those wines that are part of the Bouchard, except in cases where there is another otherwise eponymous wine.)Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767

Bouchard owns some fine parcels in Clos de Vougeot and this shows in the dense character of the wine, with its minerality and tight structure. It is dark, brooding almost, very dry, but likely to age well over many years. ——R.V.(7/1/2010)—— 94

Not all Clos Vougeot lives up to its billing, but this wine certainly does. With its superbly ripe fruit, a harmonious balance between fruit, tannins and acidity, and a full, generous texture, this is a wine to savor. It is a big wine in all senses, except that it has a great sense of proportion. Enjoy this wine in 2–3 years, or age for 10.——R.V.(12/31/2008)—— 95

An estate lot – 2005 Clos Vougeot – Domaine Bouchard – offers similarly black fruit and meat aromas to the rendition from purchased grapes, but with an even more prominent saltiness, with sweet, almost candied high-toned black fruit ripeness, and with a sleeker, more refined texture to complement its expansive richness. The finish is long and multidimensional, with not a trace of roughness or heat. Managing director Stephane Follin and cellar master Philippe Prost preside over a remarkable new, gravity-fed winemaking facility capable of handling the fruits of Bouchard’s 130 hectares of vines – Burgundy’s largest estate (with 84 hectares in premier and grand crus alone) – not to mention the enormous range of wine from purchased fruit or wines. Fully 40% of the reds are vinified in open-top fermenters with manual punch-downs (the balance in a battery of roto-fermentors) and the system of traffic control alone that must be in place during crush is hard to imagine. The underground acreage devoted to barriques similarly defies imagination – until one sees it. Prost was very cautious with pigeage this year, but incorporated a significant percentage of whole clusters with stems in many of his better lots. A reputation for improved quality is being built here to which the results of 2005 will certainly contribute. I suspect that a number of the wines I tasted had not recovered from their recent bottling, hence the number of “+?”s one sees displayed following my scores. (Wines from the Domaine are designated D on the list above.)Also recommended: 2005 Savigny-les-Beaune Les Lavieres D ($30.00; 86), 2005 Monthelie Les Duresses D ($35.00; 84), 2005 Monthelie Clos des Champs Fulliot D ($35.00; 85), 2005 Beaune 1er Cru “Beaune du Chateau” D ($45.00; 86+?), 2005 Beaune Marconnets ($35.00; 86+?), 2005 Volnay Taillepieds D ($55.00; 85+?), 2005 Pommard 1er Cru ($45.00; 84+?), 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges ($55.00; 85), 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin ($35.00; 86), 2005 Vosne-Romanee ($35.00; 85), 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Porrets St.-Georges ($55.00; 86+?), 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Damodes ($55.00; 86+?).Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY