There are none of the green, herbal aromas usually linked to Maturana, as the 2011 Inspiración Maturana feels extremely ripe, on the verge of overripeness, with notes of roasted plums, figs and raisins, a volatile touch and earthy undertones. The palate feels round at first, but then seems hollow in the middle: structure without meat. 12,000.

The 2010 Inspiracion Valdemar Maturana has an extremely dark color, it’s almost black in color with plenty of black notes in the nose – peat, shoe polish, graphite and charred wood, ripe blackberries and cassis. It reveals a lactic touch, but manages to avoid the herbaceous notes so common in Maturana Tinta. It is a full-bodied wine, round and powerful, with pungent flavors and a long finish, well-crafted but is hard to pin down as a Rioja. Drink 2014-2019. Bodegas Valdemar, which seemed very modern when created in 1985, has a wide portfolio of well-crafted, clean wines showing good typicity and balance as well as an interesting collection of varietals. They now produce two million bottles of very regular, crowd-pleasing wines. Imported by CIV (USA) Coleccion Internacional Del Vino, Sacramento, CA; tel. (800) 669-1972; www.civusa.com

This supple red shows flavors of currant and raspberry, with notes of lilac, laurel and bay leaf. The acidity is fresh and lively, showing light, well-integrated tannins, floral elements and a spicy finish. Polished yet expressive. Drink now through 2018. 1,000 cases made.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add

The 2008 Inspiracion Maturana, a recovered variety, spent 20 months in French oak. Its herbal, peppery, and sage aromas are reminiscent of a Loire Valley red. Accompanying these elements are aromas of wood smoke, mineral, and blackberry leading to a ripe, balanced wine with excellent volume and length. It is likely to evolve for 2-3 years and should drink well through 2020. Bodegas Valdemar produces a wide range of wines from both estate and purchased fruit, most of it at very prices. Importer: CIV (USA), Sacramento, CA; Tel. (800) 669-1972

A modern style, with an intriguing character, this opulent red delivers plum and boysenberry fruit, showing accents of toast, licorice and mineral, starting sweet but finishing savory. Big yet balanced, ripe yet graceful. Drink now through 2018. 1,000 cases made.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add