The 2009 Torrederos Seleccion comes from 50- to 70-year-old vines in Fuentelisendo and sees 14 months in new French and American oak. It has a touch of over-ripeness on the decadent nose. The palate is full-bodied with saturated tannins and cough drops on the finish. This is slightly overdone. Drink now-2016. To my knowledge, these were being imported into the U.S., but are no longer carried.

The 2007 Torrederos Seleccion is made in a more international style. It is 100% Tempranillo aged for 16 months in barrel. Purple/black in color, it gives up an exotic, sexy perfume of Asian spices, incense, smoke, and wild berries. On the palate it is smooth-textured, layered, and elegant combined with excellent volume and concentration. Give it 5-7 years of cellaring and drink it from 2015 to 2027. Torrederos was founded in 2000 by 4 grape-growing families who previously sold their fruit to other wineries. The estate consists of approximately 220 acres of vineyard. Importer: The Enye Group, Chicago, IL; www.enyegroup.com and Antalva Imports, Los Angeles, CA; (310) 695-6260

Solid and balanced, this red is four-square and direct, with unadorned flavors of plum, black cherry, mineral and smoke. No flash here, but plenty of substance and depth. Drink now through 2018. 500 cases made.??–TM??Region: Spain / Ribera del Duero Select to Add

The 2004 Seleccion was aged for 14 months in French and American oak. It has a more uplifted, complex aromatic display including notes of wood smoke, cedar, spice box, plum, and blackberry liqueur. Loaded and layered, it has enough stuffing to unfold for another 5-7 years and should drink well through 2025. The finish lasts for 60+ seconds as the wine admirably combines elegance and power. Importer: Antalva Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 695-6260