The 2009 Torrederos Reserva is aged for 18 months in new French and American oak. Alas, the nose is dominated by the wood at the expense of fruit expression. The palate is sweet and fleshy on the entry, but there is good structure here and more freshness on the finish than the nose implies, with hints of white pepper on the aftertaste. Give this two or three years to show what it can do. Drink 2014-2020. To my knowledge, these were being imported into the U.S., but are no longer carried.

The opaque purple 2005 Reserva spent 18 months in barrel. This sizeable Reserva reflects the style of the vintage in a positive manner. Brooding black fruits, Asian spices, incense, lavender, and licorice form the wine’s impressive bouquet. It leads to a loaded, dense, rich, structured, impeccably balanced wine that will achieve its 20th birthday in fine form. It is a worthy successor to the impressive 2004 Reserva reviewed one year ago. Importer: The Enye Group, Chicago, IL; Tel. (312) 876-1200

The 2004 Torrederos Reserva was aged in oak for 18 months. It displays an expressive bouquet of wood smoke, pencil lead, mineral, incense, violets, and blackberry. Dense, layered, and opulent on the palate, this impeccably balanced offering has 6-8 years of aging potential. It is a fine example of the great 2004 vintage in Ribera del Duero. Drink it from 2016 to 2034. Torrederos was founded in 2000 by 4 grape-growing families who previously sold their fruit to other wineries. The estate consists of approximately 220 acres of vineyard. Importer: The Enye Group, Chicago, IL; www.enyegroup.com and Antalva Imports, Los Angeles, CA; (310) 695-6260