The 2010 Crianza feels straightforward, with aromas of ripe black fruit and licorice, denoting its youthful character, but with full fruit and depth, developing floral aromas with time in the glass. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with some rusticity, grainy tannins and moderate acidity. One for lamb chops. Drink now.

The 2008 Crianza was sourced from vines over 40 years of age and was in barrel for 14 months. Like the 2009, it is also deeply colored along with a late-harvest, lightly roasted personality. Very intense and lengthy, this powerful, super-concentrated offering requires at least 3-4 years of additional cellaring. It will deliver prime drinking from 2013 to 2020+. Bodegas Tardencuba is a 33 acre estate whose Tinta de Toro vines are all fermented with native yeasts and bottled without fining or filtration. Importer: F.L. Navarro, The Artisan Collection, Brooklyn, NY; Tel. (718) 596-0722

The 2007 Crianza was sourced from 40-year-old Tinta de Toro vines and aged for 6 months in French and American oak. It is a glass-coating opaque purple color with an expressive nose of spice box, lavender, mineral, espresso, and blackberry. More structured than the Roble, it will evolve for 3-4 years and offer prime drinking from 2012 to 2022. This lengthy effort is an outstanding value and a good introduction to the DO of Toro. Importer: The Artisan Collection, New York, NY; tel. (212) 608-0722

Both Tardencuba wines are 100% Tinta de Toro. The 2006 Tardencuba Crianza spent 15 months in French and American oak. Purple-colored, it reveals an enticing perfume of cedar, spice box, tobacco, incense, and blackberry. Layered, plush, and spicy, it has excellent depth and concentration, 2-3 years of aging potential and a lengthy, pure finish. Drink it from 2011 to 2018. Importer: The Artisan Collection, New York, NY; Tel: (212) 608-0722

Bodegas Tardencuba owns 15 hectares of Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo) in the southwest of Zamora. The top wines are made from ungrafted centennial vines from a sandy region in which phylloxera never took hold. This wine was fermented with native yeasts and bottled without fining or filtration. The 2004 Crianza spent 15 months in seasoned French and American oak. Dark ruby colored, it offers an attractive nose of cedar, leather spice box, and blackberry. This leads to a firm, balanced, supple-textured wine with plenty of spicy black fruits and several years of aging potential. Drink it through 2015. Importer: F.L. Navarro, Quality Wines of Spain, New York, NY; tel. (212) 842-8181