The 2005 Lealtanza Gran Reserva spends 24 months in both American and oak casks. It has an expressive bouquet of dark cherries, blackberry, cedar and tobacco that is well-defined and in synch with the wood. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine, leathery entry, and the bold, sturdy tannins provide firm structure on the finish. Here, I feel that the American oak lends another bow to its arrow compared to others in the range, with hints of mocha and dark chocolate furnishing the aftertaste. This is a very fine Gran Reserva. Drink now-2018.
Bodegas Altanza is a relatively recent addition to the Rioja landscape, having been established in 1998. They own around 200 hectares of vine, plus another 50 hectares under contracted vineyards. With respect to their red varieties, they are all 100% Tempranillo. The winery is located just outside the town of Fuenmayor in Rioja Alta, and from the very beginning they have raised their wines through French rather than American oak (which accounts for around 10% of aging vessels). Apart from their top blends, their range utilizes a prudent 15% new oak, i.e. a six-year cycle of barrel usage. You could describe the style of their wines as modern, but with restraint. I will begin with their "Edulis" range, which is sourced from the bodega's own vines and runs parallel to the Lealtanza wines. Edulis is aimed towards a younger generation of wine drinkers and to the off-trade, wines that are easily understandable. Altanza produces two wines aimed at the U.S. market (although they are now also available in Europe). I tasted two wines from the premium "Spanish Artists Collection," which is available in three-packs, each adorned with a different picture of the chosen artist.
Importer: F.L. Navarro, The Artisan Collection, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (718) 596-0722
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