The 2007 the Cave "Non-Mevushal" is quite pleasing, but a bit straightforward. This is a sexy, little charmer laced with a lot of sweet oak nuances. It is quite elegant in the mid-palate, without a lot of concentration. It disappears a bit too fast on the finish. There is a hint of char on the nose after aeration. The tannins moderate fairly quickly, allowing this charming wine to be a pleasure to drink. The principal caveat I usually have with this bottling concerns its price point for what it is. It is a charming little wine, but not a lot of wine considering the price point. Drink now-2015. Binyamina, Israel's fourth largest winery, is pointing out expensive renovations (14 million euros) to the winery of late. As already noted in my last look at Binyamina releases, there already seemed to be some gradual uptick in quality here, whether or not because of the improvements. In fact, not everything could possibly have kicked in by then or by now. It will be interesting to watch going forward. The chief winemaker is Sasson Ben Aharon, since 2002. Winemaker Assaf Paz, with a degree from Bordeaux, who worked at Navarro, also produces wines for his well regarded family boutique, Vitkin. Consultant Marc Dworkin of Bordeaux fame (working with Stephan von Neipperg) lends a hand as well. In descending order of prestige, at the top Binyamina has the "Chosen" brand, from the Biblical Hoshen Stones; the regular Reserves; the Yogev ("farmer") brand, named in tribute to Binyamina's growers; and the Teva brand, which includes things like Emerald Riesling and Cabernet blush. It is the Chosen series that will be of most interest and rightly so, as they are generally nicely made and quite charming. Their problem tends to be that they can be a bit pricey for what they are. Finally, "The Cave" is Binyamina's boutique brand.Importer: Royal Wine Corp., Bayonne, NJ; tel. (718) 534-0118
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