Binyamina Cabernet Sauvignon Aquamarine

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The 2009 “Chosen - Aquamarine” is all Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in French oak. There is a nice price spike between this and the regular reserves, but frankly the ’08 regular Reserve reviewed this issue holds up fairly decently to this. Granted, this has a little more power, sweeter fruit – but it is also a lot younger. It is pleasant and has charm, but it frankly does not seem to me to do enough to justify the big price spike. Drink now-2018. Importer: Royal Wine Corp., Bayonne, N.J.; tel: (718) 534-0118.

The 2006 “CHOSEN – AQUAMARINE,” the current release in the USA, is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Kidmat Zvi vineyard in the Golan Heights, aged for 16 months in French oak. The winery indicated that it considered 2006 to be a low yield vintage for them. As with most of Binyamina’s offerings, it has an elegant mid-palate and works well as a food wine. It is on the thin side, though, and has too little finish and concentration for this price range. Pleasant enough, if rather short, and coming around pretty fast, it shows a little character, but not quite enough. Price aside, it is enjoyable to drink. However long it lasts, noting that Cabernet does not normally fall off the table and this does have some structure, I suspect the rather modest mid-palate will not reward long aging. There were 8,900 bottles produced. Drink now-2015. Binyamina is one of Israel’s larger and older wine producers. The Chosen brand wines reviewed this issue are denominated with the gemstones chosen (onyx, diamond, sapphire, etc.), according to the winery, for the "breastplate of the High Priest during the time of the Second Temple.” The 2007 releases are nicely done as a group. Note: Although Binyamina does have a USA importer, all releases do not always appear and not always at the same time, necessarily, in our marketplace. As of this writing, it is not clear, for instance, if the late harvest gewurztraminer will be imported, and the 2006 releases in some labels were still current in this marketplace with ‘07s not yet available.Importer: Royal Wine Corp., Bayonne, N.J.; tel: (718) 534-0118.

The 2005 CABERNET SAUVIGNON AQUAMARINE, part of Binyamina's "Chosen" series, representing gems chosen in Biblical times, is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Golan Heights, aged 16 months in new French oak. In many respects this has the same formula as the Ruby Syrah reviewed this issue-the oak softens the wine and adds a certain overlay of flavor. It is light in the mid-palate, with little concentration and modest structure. It has texture that is caressing on the palate and a bit of a gamey note on the nose. It is charming to drink and quite pleasing, even if pricey for what it is. The bright, succulent finish was quite tasty. As with the reserve Cabernet reviewed this issue, there is a certain herbaceousness here. Those looking for value might settle for the reserve Cabernet. There were 8,000 bottles produced. Drink now-2014. Binyamina’s Yogev label is a tribute to its growers and farmers. It means “tiller of the soil,” in Hebrew.Importer: Royal Wine Corp, Bayonne, N.J.; tel: (718) 534-0118.

The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon “Aquamarine” is light in the mid-palate, with some vanillin-laced flavors, and a fairly short finish that fades rapidly. It flattens out quickly and becomes austere. While the oak integrates, it shows little beyond being a reasonable pick for an everyday wine. It does show some structure with air, but it goes nowhere afterwards. It has a vegetal streak as well. Drink now-2012. Binyamina is one of Israel’s larger and older wine producers, founded in 1952 and revitalized in 1992 when it was sold to Danny Dimbort and Avi Lerner. It produces around two million bottles a year. The Chosen label wines are denominated with gemstones chosen, according to the winery, for the "breastplate of the High Priest during the time of the Second Temple.”This is Kosher. Importer: Royal Wine Corp, Bayonne, N.J.; tel. (718) 534-0118