A pure expression of Sangiovese, the 2014 Soffocone di Vincigliata is a mid weight wine with a dark ruby appearance. The nose reveals some raw notes with plum, dark berry and spice. The interesting fact is that although the wine does not strive to deliver pure balance in a conventional sense, it does show a unique sense of harmony. It takes a while, but ultimately this wine comes together in seamless fashion. Be warned, however, that it keeps you guessing for a very long time.

The 2009 Soffocone di Vincigliata is a pleasant, mid weight wine graced with sweet dark cherries, flowers, licorice and tobacco, all of which meld together nicely. The wine shows excellent mid-palate sweetness along with a round, inviting finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. I am perplexed by this set of wines from Bibi Graetz. Quality is inconsistent throughout the range, most disappointingly in the higher end bottlings. Various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Trilussa Wine Company, Greenbrae CA; tel. (415) 499 8466, Siema Wines LLC, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-1200, MS Walker, Sommerville, MA; tel. (617) 776-6700

The 2007 Soffocone di Vincigliata is a darker, weightier wine. Black cherries, toasted oak and sweet spices are woven into a pretty, mid-weight frame. The intensity of the fruit follows through nicely to the polished close. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. I continue to be impressed with the beautiful wines of Bibi Graetz. These are highly singular, expressive wines that merit serious consideration. Various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Trilussa Wine Company, Greenbrae CA; tel. (415) 499 8466, Siema Wines LLC, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-1200, MS Walker, Sommerville, MA; tel. (617) 776-6700

Graetz's 2006 Soffocone di Vincigliata (from vineyards in Fiesole) offers fresh, vibrant black cherry fruit on a medium-bodied, taut frame, showing excellent harmony and balance. It is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Bibi Graetz's wines always make me smile because they have an almost child-like joy about them. Various American importers, including: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Trilussa Wine Company, Greenbrae, CA; tel. (415) 927 9463, Siema Wines LLC, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-1200, MS Walker, Sommerville, MA; tel. (617) 776 6700

This is a superb set of releases and I can’t recommend the wines highly enough. The 2004 Soffocone di Vincigliata is the best of the negociant range. A deeply colored ruby, it reveals sweet dark cherries, smoke and licorice along with a plump, full-bodied personality. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2014. Importer: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300