Bethel Heights West Block Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, USA

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The 2021 Pinot Noir West Block comes from the oldest Pinot Noir vines at Bethel Heights, planted in 1977. "We tore out 30% of those vines last week," winemaker Ben Casteel says. "A third of it was hanging on a trellis and we were never going to make transcendent wines from it." The remaining vines from 1977 are the healthiest on the property. "So, we kept the Wadenswil block and will install vertical shoot positioning and tighter trellises. We will replant with Pommard and a mix of other clones this spring." He also notes that varying vine ages results in slightly different ripening times. "I think there's a real benefit to some vines being ahead, some right on time and some behind." Medium ruby-purple, the 2021 Pinot Noir West Block takes some coaxing to reveal scents of cranberry, rhubarb and pomegranate with nuances of tobacco, dried earth, bitter orange and Angostura bitters. The medium-bodied palate is silky and energetic, with an intriguing touch of bitterness reminiscent of amaro carrying the long, layered finish. This has notable detail but will require more time in bottle to unwind.

The 2019 Pinot Noir West Block comes from Wadenswil clone vines planted in 1977. Medium ruby-purple, it opens with flinty tones that segue to burnt orange, wild blackberries, amaro and licorice. Medium-bodied, it has intense, spicy layers with silty tannins, bright acidity and a very long finish with detailed flavors. It's a great candidate for additional time in bottle.

The medium ruby-purple colored 2017 Pinot Noir West Block comes from the oldest vines on the property, Wadensvil clones planted in 1977. It features scents of pipe tobacco, underbrush, peppercorn and cured meats to begin, fleshing out to crushed cranberries and black cherries with loads of floral and mineral nuance. Medium-bodied and broody, it's firm and grainy with a long, lifted, minerally finish. This is approachable now but will reward cellaring.

From own-rooted vines planted in 1977, the 2016 Pinot Noir West Block is pale to medium ruby-purple in color with warm cinnamon stick and clove notes over ripe black berries, cherries and currant aromas with a perfumed core of pepper, potpourri, underbrush and dried leaves. Medium-bodied, it fills the mouth with sweet black fruits and oodles of spicy/savory notions—sliced prosciutto, potpourri, tree bark, bitter peel—with fine-grained tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing very long and earthy. 450 cases produced.

The Pinot comes from Wadensvil clone vines planted in 1977. Pale to medium ruby-purple, the 2015 Pinot Noir West Block delivers notes of red roses, tilled soil, dried leaves and black truffles over a core of red currants and black cherries. Medium-bodied with lovely, finely-grained tannins to texture the generous red berry and earth layers, it has plenty of freshness and great persistence.