Although the 1990 Pinot Noir-Reserve is slightly better than the regular bottling, it costs $10 more. The additional sweetness of fruit, increased flavor dimension, and spicy new oak do not justify the price differential. Nevertheless, it is a generously endowed, seductive Pinot Noir for drinking over the next 5-6 years.

Technocrats may be disturbed by the whiff of the "brett" yeast in the leathery, meaty aromas, but there are also gobs of rich fruit, as well as some evidence of toasty new oak. In the mouth, the wine exhibits excellent intensity, medium to full body, good structure, and a long, rich finish. This is an impressive, authoritative tasting Pinot Noir that will be even better with another 1-2 years of cellaring. It could last up to a decade.