The outstanding Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie (75% new oak) exhibits strong mineral aromas and a powerful, intense, and deep personality filled with lively almonds, pears and spices. This expressive, rich, medium-to-full-bodied, and silky-textured wine is concentrated, complex, and admirably long. It should be at its peak between 2000 and 2006.The ever-smiling Bertrand Ambroise is one of the rare winemakers who produces high quality white and red Burgundies. Gregarious, intelligent, and always armed with a new joke or witty remark, Ambroise gets serious when talk turns to winemaking. In 1996 he crafted his whites 100% in barrel, with twice weekly batonnages until the malo-lactic fermentations began. He stopped stirring the lees at this stage "because the lees did not taste good."Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.