Offers a plump, off-dry feel, with notes of creamed melon, green fig and pear laced with a hint of piecrust through the flattering finish. A little shy on zip. For fans of the friendly style. Drink now. 200 cases imported. –JM

Off-dry, but stays bright, with a floral edge to the pear and lime zest notes, followed by a dash of quince on the juicy finish. Drink now. 250 cases imported. -JM

Narcissus, candied lime, grapefruit, and blood orange rinds memorably scent the Aubuisieres 2009 Vouvray Cuvee Les Girardieres, then go on to inform a nut oil- and honey-infused, bittersweetly zesty palate subtly oily in texture. This finishes with fruit pip and citrus rind bitterness, as well as alkaline and savory, saline minerality, and if it falls short in terms of sheer refreshment, that is simply a reflection of its vintage. I suspect this will hold well for at least 5-7 years, although its bitter element might become more pronounced. It was good to be able to taste an expanded range of Bernard Fouquet’s many cuvees, some if which – I am ashamed to admit – I had never tasted before, having never paid him a visit. Fouquet has followed the fashionable tendency to abolish labeling with “sec” or “demi-sec” as a taste indicator (a trend notably resisted by Fouquet’s two best-known neighbors and arguably the only ones making even more exciting wine than his, namely Foreau and Huet). As with many growers’ German Rieslings, the surest hint to the wines’ degrees of sweetness is the levels of alcohol indicated on the label. But with one exception that he does label “sec,” it’s true that from 2009 none of Fouquet’s still wines taste totally dry.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Effectively the demi-sec Fouquet’s 2008 Vouvray Cuvee Les Girardieres smells absolutely kaleidoscopic in its amalgam of quince, Mirabelle, white peach, toasted almond, buddleia, and rosemary. Exuberantly fruity, lush, yet refreshing thanks to underlying grapefruit and lime, this perfectly-balanced wine’s 26 grams of residual sugar are barely in evidence (meaning you’d miss them if they weren’t there). A great advance on the 2007 rendition, this pure, evocative Vouvray only narrowly misses the clarity and verve of Fouquet’s dry “Silex” cuvee. The latest installment of what is surely the consistently best value in its appellation,Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Light and fresh, with tangy green apple, lime and green plum notes backed by a slightly off-dry finish. A second bottle showed a musty, mushroom edge, despite the screw cap closure. Drink now. 500 cases imported. -JM