The Aubousieres 2007 Vouvray Demi-Sec Cuvee Les Girardieres smells of quince jelly, candied orange rind, and lilies. While it is noticeably sweet, that fits the counterpoint of creaminess and yeastiness with citrus bitterness and brightness it expresses, leading to a finish suggestive of a quince jelly and orange marmalade glaze on a lime meringue pie. I would plan to enjoy it over the next 2-3 years although its evolution past that point might well continue to fascinate, if bitterness does not get the upper-hand. This 2007, incidentally, is closed with Stelvin screw-caps. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Light and fresh, with tangy green apple, lime and green plum notes backed by a slightly off-dry finish. A second bottle showed a musty, mushroom edge, despite the screw cap closure. Drink now. 500 cases imported. -JM