The 2009 Barolo Cannubi shows delicate highlights of wild berries, cassis, herbs, blue flower, licorice and dried ginger held together in a tight embrace. As you would expect from this vineyard cru, the Cannubi is the most delicate and feminine of this threesome. The long-term perspectives are good, although the medium build suggests the wine might evolve faster. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023. Brezza offers a beautiful window into the fascinating world of traditional Barolo. If you truly love that style, these are wines you will definitely want to enjoy and collect.Various American Importers, including: Acid Inc. Selections, New York, NY; tel. (917) 687-4848; P&S Wine Company, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 265-3155; Ideal Wine & Spirits, Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300

The 2008 Barolo Cannubi shows gorgeous depth and silkiness in its red fruit, flowers, spices and mint. This is a seriously textured wine for the vintage. Sweet floral and spiced notes reappear to round out the generous, seductive finish. The focus and energy are both of note. Still, the Cannubi is the most approachable of the 2008s at Brezza. It should drink well with just a few more years in bottle. The medium-bodied structure suggests the Cannubi will also be the first of these wines to mature, but I imagine there won’t be too many bottles lying around by the time that becomes an issue. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Brezza remains one of the best-kept secrets in traditionally-made Barolo. One day people will figure it out, but in the meantime shrewd consumers would do well to pay attention to the best wines that emerge from this small cellar in the center of town.Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (917) 687-4848